Hey everybody, finally threw an album together for your vewing pleasure. You should be able to roll your cursor over each image and see the written commentary for "person, place and thing."
I am in the throws of last minute prep here in Chiang Mai, having parted ways w/ the crew this afternoon. I plan to be on my bike tomorrow morning for the first "ohmygodwhatamIdoing?!?!"
It's gonna be great. Can't wait to have my ass handed to me w/ a pair of chopsticks, on a banana leaf plate, w/ a thick layer of sticky rice.
Keep my backside in your thoughts and prayers, it's going to need it. Especially in that ever so tender first week...or two. Love to all.
Friday, January 26, 2007
Wednesday, January 24, 2007
Oh, and P.S.
This is awesome. I keep finding computers whose script is in other languages and I have no idea how to change them back to English. Currently I am maneuvering the site in Portuguese. The other day I'm pretty sure it was Chinese, but really I have no idea.
Crystal, Johnny, little Ilan and I have emerged after a mere three days from Myanmar, greatful to be back in Thailand and feeling like we barely escaped. While I am glad we went, good Lord, they are in no hurry to invite independent tourists into the country for conveniences and pleasantries. It felt like more work to be there for a few days, than it takes to be anywhere in Thailand for a month. To begin w/the border crossing strips you of your passport and gives you this dodgey "temporary travel visa",which they promptly take from you and hand your pre-arranged bus driver, along w/ a mess of xerox copied forms containing all of your info, one copy for each check point over the following 6hr bus ride. I lost track of how many there were. Once you arrive in your location of choice, you are given your travel visa until you reach your hotel, where it is taken again and sent to god only knows where, to be held until you change hotels or leave. Meanwhile, hotels cost 3-5 times what we've been paying and preferrably paid in US$. The majority of the town we were in did not have electricity after dark and only had hot water during certain hrs in the a.m. The whole experience was a little surreal and I have a new found hostility that I harbor for birds in general, but especially pigeons and roosters.
I have a lot of deep thoughts about the whole two days we spent there, but the primary things that struck me were this: One, the world outside of America is void of insulation in soooooo many senses of the word. In truth, I think it is America that is so incredibly insulated, but coming from that insulation, it of course, feels opposite. From auto horns sounding as loud in the car as out, to muffler, walls, doors, floors, animals, people, dirt, stink, you name it, we are so sterilized and insulated from what life really is and what makes it all tick on a day to day basis. I was so mad in Myanmar by the second night of sleeplessness thanks to the damned neighborhood cock, crowing his head off at 3 a.m. and the pigeons that seemed to be roosting...and fighting...and mating...and pooping...and eating...and everything else pigeons, not the least of which is chorteling and cooing at ALL hours! Christ people, barbed wire! Glass! Freaking space between the ceiling and the roof of the building! ANYTHING! Just make them shut up! Then there's the neighborhood barking squad, the screaming kids, amazingly loud motorcycles and tuk-tuks, and wow, is that daylight streaming in through the slats in my walls? No wonder it's freezing in here and what is...oh it's just a gecko tearing out from behind the mirror in the bathroom. And the bathrooms...now that is a six-pack conversation. I have so many questions and they do not come close to stopping or starting at the Myanmar border. These questions are Asia-wide. Just, tell me what I am supposed to do with sink sprayer? I get the general idea, but...you know, nevermind.
Two: From everything I have read and come to understand about Myanmar, which is incredibly little, take your worst day of internalized oppression and self doubt, a day where you have yourself backed into a corner, paralyzed, and apply that to a nation. There is really just a whole lot of nothing going on where we went. Given, we were in a small, less tourist frequented area, but there just isn't much of anything happening. There are small stores and a market, but very little money gets exchanged. We stood out severely, but weren't necessarily targets. People were kind, but didn't go out of their way for us, which was nice. Instead, it felt like there was a heavy apathy in the air, and I think in many ways, the spirit has been beat out of the people and the country itself. It's dirty, but you don't see the poverty like India. Rumor has it, it's hidden, and you only see what the military government wants you to see. One thing that bugged me, was the fact that 90% of the residents didn't have electricity to read a book by, but there were incredible spotlights on the immense Buddah statue that overlooked the town. I have started to view temples (wats, as they call them) and Buddhism in a light similar to that of Catholisism and it's churches. The people starve, but the people in power have "God"on their side and give the best of the best to maintaining that. But that's another six-pack conversation that I don't need to have with myself right now.
So anyway, there you have it. We are on a layover day in Chiangrai and tomorrow we will part ways. I will catch a bus to Chiang Mai and start peddaling the next day...eeeeeeek! And, it somehow managed to escape me until today, that my travels here are for a total of 3 mos. not 4. Ooops. Suddenly time feels more prescious than it already did, but I will see where the next 2& 1/2 lead me and then decide if it's enough. For now, there are strangers to meet and crazy, incredible food to be digested.
Oh, and P.S.
Those little french fry looking things, really are fried maggots. They taste like peanut oil.
Crystal, Johnny, little Ilan and I have emerged after a mere three days from Myanmar, greatful to be back in Thailand and feeling like we barely escaped. While I am glad we went, good Lord, they are in no hurry to invite independent tourists into the country for conveniences and pleasantries. It felt like more work to be there for a few days, than it takes to be anywhere in Thailand for a month. To begin w/the border crossing strips you of your passport and gives you this dodgey "temporary travel visa",which they promptly take from you and hand your pre-arranged bus driver, along w/ a mess of xerox copied forms containing all of your info, one copy for each check point over the following 6hr bus ride. I lost track of how many there were. Once you arrive in your location of choice, you are given your travel visa until you reach your hotel, where it is taken again and sent to god only knows where, to be held until you change hotels or leave. Meanwhile, hotels cost 3-5 times what we've been paying and preferrably paid in US$. The majority of the town we were in did not have electricity after dark and only had hot water during certain hrs in the a.m. The whole experience was a little surreal and I have a new found hostility that I harbor for birds in general, but especially pigeons and roosters.
I have a lot of deep thoughts about the whole two days we spent there, but the primary things that struck me were this: One, the world outside of America is void of insulation in soooooo many senses of the word. In truth, I think it is America that is so incredibly insulated, but coming from that insulation, it of course, feels opposite. From auto horns sounding as loud in the car as out, to muffler, walls, doors, floors, animals, people, dirt, stink, you name it, we are so sterilized and insulated from what life really is and what makes it all tick on a day to day basis. I was so mad in Myanmar by the second night of sleeplessness thanks to the damned neighborhood cock, crowing his head off at 3 a.m. and the pigeons that seemed to be roosting...and fighting...and mating...and pooping...and eating...and everything else pigeons, not the least of which is chorteling and cooing at ALL hours! Christ people, barbed wire! Glass! Freaking space between the ceiling and the roof of the building! ANYTHING! Just make them shut up! Then there's the neighborhood barking squad, the screaming kids, amazingly loud motorcycles and tuk-tuks, and wow, is that daylight streaming in through the slats in my walls? No wonder it's freezing in here and what is...oh it's just a gecko tearing out from behind the mirror in the bathroom. And the bathrooms...now that is a six-pack conversation. I have so many questions and they do not come close to stopping or starting at the Myanmar border. These questions are Asia-wide. Just, tell me what I am supposed to do with sink sprayer? I get the general idea, but...you know, nevermind.
Two: From everything I have read and come to understand about Myanmar, which is incredibly little, take your worst day of internalized oppression and self doubt, a day where you have yourself backed into a corner, paralyzed, and apply that to a nation. There is really just a whole lot of nothing going on where we went. Given, we were in a small, less tourist frequented area, but there just isn't much of anything happening. There are small stores and a market, but very little money gets exchanged. We stood out severely, but weren't necessarily targets. People were kind, but didn't go out of their way for us, which was nice. Instead, it felt like there was a heavy apathy in the air, and I think in many ways, the spirit has been beat out of the people and the country itself. It's dirty, but you don't see the poverty like India. Rumor has it, it's hidden, and you only see what the military government wants you to see. One thing that bugged me, was the fact that 90% of the residents didn't have electricity to read a book by, but there were incredible spotlights on the immense Buddah statue that overlooked the town. I have started to view temples (wats, as they call them) and Buddhism in a light similar to that of Catholisism and it's churches. The people starve, but the people in power have "God"on their side and give the best of the best to maintaining that. But that's another six-pack conversation that I don't need to have with myself right now.
So anyway, there you have it. We are on a layover day in Chiangrai and tomorrow we will part ways. I will catch a bus to Chiang Mai and start peddaling the next day...eeeeeeek! And, it somehow managed to escape me until today, that my travels here are for a total of 3 mos. not 4. Ooops. Suddenly time feels more prescious than it already did, but I will see where the next 2& 1/2 lead me and then decide if it's enough. For now, there are strangers to meet and crazy, incredible food to be digested.
Oh, and P.S.
Those little french fry looking things, really are fried maggots. They taste like peanut oil.
Friday, January 19, 2007
Peanut covered donuts
You know damn it, sometimes people are jerks. Sometimes they are incredibly cool too, but at the moment, the cool people are not my muse. The jerks are. Them, and a momentary bout of Henny Penny, "The sky is falling! The sky is falling!" outlook on the world.
It just came to my attention that I filled out a completely bogus bank "Account Review Alert!" on my e-mail the other day, asking me everything but my...actually, I think I even wrote that in there. Anyway, come to find out it was FRAUD. Luckily, there appears to be no suspicious activity on my account-they likely took one look at my balance and had a sudden stroke of conscience-but the very concept of fraud annoys me. Pricks. Anyway, don't respond to any Wells Fargo e-mails that want you to spell out e-v-e-r-y-t-h-i-n-g for them. I am here to tell you, they are bogus.
Now, on to the happier topics in my life. I AM OUT OF BANGKOK!!!! Yeeeeeeeeeehaaaaw! Despite 6 plus hrs of unsucessful, standby wait time at the airport (thanks to the biggest Horticulture Expo on the face of the planet taking place in the one town I am trying to escape to), ridiculous taxi fees (yes both ways), and to add insult to injury, the choice of a peanut covered doughnut to comfort my crumbling ego after hauling my boxed bike, backpack and stuffed-to-the-brim paniers through the (brilliant last resort supplied by Shanti-thank you!) local Thai bus depot at 10 o'clock p.m. Can you say "sore thumb?" That's right, against all odds, peanut freakin' whateverness too, give it up Bangkok, I'm running as fast as I can. And now, I write you from Chang Mai, surrounded by friends, Crystal, Johnny, baby Ilan and Auntie VJ. I seriously thought I might be waking up on Khoa San Rd again this morning. Whew.
I really can't begin to describe some of the things that go on here sometimes. I know the majority of life is laughable, but hell if I can see it when I'm in the middle of a communication melt down with the airline, telling me I do not have a seat on the last flight I've been waiting all day to take, for a ticket I purchased a week ago, from a guy who told me I had a reservation but then told me my visa/passport was delayed by day and therefore my airline tkt was too. Now apparently the reservation was for yesterday because I didn't call, but wait, the airline has a seat, but no room for my bike, or is it that the plane has already pulled away from the luggage loading area, or is it just that they don't want to deal w/ the freakin' huge box that the "fa-lang" (foriegner) is toting around like a suitcase? I really don't know. And the truth is, everytime I sit down somewhere, everybody is so kind and so helpful. But damned if the world wasn't plotting against me for a few hours there and it summed it all up with that donut. I was so looking forward to it too. Never before has Dunkin' Donuts represented comfort to me...and never again will I mistake it as such.
Children, take head of my mistakes. I would never wish you to suffer in the ways that I have.
I can't wait to get on my bike!!! Short jaunt to Burma, and then I am back here to take off. Yippeeeee!
Big hello to all my TX fam who are tuning in. My love to everyone.
It just came to my attention that I filled out a completely bogus bank "Account Review Alert!" on my e-mail the other day, asking me everything but my...actually, I think I even wrote that in there. Anyway, come to find out it was FRAUD. Luckily, there appears to be no suspicious activity on my account-they likely took one look at my balance and had a sudden stroke of conscience-but the very concept of fraud annoys me. Pricks. Anyway, don't respond to any Wells Fargo e-mails that want you to spell out e-v-e-r-y-t-h-i-n-g for them. I am here to tell you, they are bogus.
Now, on to the happier topics in my life. I AM OUT OF BANGKOK!!!! Yeeeeeeeeeehaaaaw! Despite 6 plus hrs of unsucessful, standby wait time at the airport (thanks to the biggest Horticulture Expo on the face of the planet taking place in the one town I am trying to escape to), ridiculous taxi fees (yes both ways), and to add insult to injury, the choice of a peanut covered doughnut to comfort my crumbling ego after hauling my boxed bike, backpack and stuffed-to-the-brim paniers through the (brilliant last resort supplied by Shanti-thank you!) local Thai bus depot at 10 o'clock p.m. Can you say "sore thumb?" That's right, against all odds, peanut freakin' whateverness too, give it up Bangkok, I'm running as fast as I can. And now, I write you from Chang Mai, surrounded by friends, Crystal, Johnny, baby Ilan and Auntie VJ. I seriously thought I might be waking up on Khoa San Rd again this morning. Whew.
I really can't begin to describe some of the things that go on here sometimes. I know the majority of life is laughable, but hell if I can see it when I'm in the middle of a communication melt down with the airline, telling me I do not have a seat on the last flight I've been waiting all day to take, for a ticket I purchased a week ago, from a guy who told me I had a reservation but then told me my visa/passport was delayed by day and therefore my airline tkt was too. Now apparently the reservation was for yesterday because I didn't call, but wait, the airline has a seat, but no room for my bike, or is it that the plane has already pulled away from the luggage loading area, or is it just that they don't want to deal w/ the freakin' huge box that the "fa-lang" (foriegner) is toting around like a suitcase? I really don't know. And the truth is, everytime I sit down somewhere, everybody is so kind and so helpful. But damned if the world wasn't plotting against me for a few hours there and it summed it all up with that donut. I was so looking forward to it too. Never before has Dunkin' Donuts represented comfort to me...and never again will I mistake it as such.
Children, take head of my mistakes. I would never wish you to suffer in the ways that I have.
I can't wait to get on my bike!!! Short jaunt to Burma, and then I am back here to take off. Yippeeeee!
Big hello to all my TX fam who are tuning in. My love to everyone.
Wednesday, January 17, 2007
Way too many nights in Bangkok
I swore off sugar today. That lasted almost 5 minutes. I bought a plane ticket out of here a week ago. I am still here. I bought a bike. I am not riding my bike. No no, instead I am flying high on Thai iced coffee, while surfing cyber waves en-slow-motion-route to the airport where I will...sit...some more...on stand-by. Grrr.
Although, there is a gentleman sitting next to me in the internet cafe who is trying desperately to delete his own e-mail account. He says he cannot control himself to not check it, but no longer wants to read the e-mails that it contains...hmmm. I feel oddly contented by the fact that I do not currently view my web accounts in the same light. Though I can't confidently say that I have never nor will ever again empathize. Damn the world of open communication, right? Ha. No, not really.
I have a line up of people on this end that I keep wanting to thank. While I dog paddle through a sea of screwy logistics, I have been blessed a million times over by the people around me, preparing me for the real journey. From simple encouragement to traveling tips, giving, loaning or selling of equipment, and tangible heart-to-hearts over coffee, beer or curry. I feel rejuvinated by the connections I have made with fellow travelers and locals alike. While I cannot wait to get out of Bangkok, I cannot leave w/out saying thank you. And that's my moment of Zen. Now, where the hell is my taxi? Tee hee.
I'm going to end every paragraph I write from now on w/ a written laugh sound. Not really, but it amuses me to consider. I sooooo neeeeeeeed to get out of heeeeeeeeeere. Now there is a man yelling in Spanish in the phone booth. The guy next to me deleting e-mail accounts was Cambodian and dispelled this information in a whisper. According to him, Thais do not like Cambodians. Last I checked, a lot of the world doesn't like American's, but so far I have not felt inclined to whisper it. I think I walk around a lot, having no clue just how blessed my life is.
I am going to go break down my bike now and cram it into a box to cram into some form of public transportation to get myself out of here. I hope this finds you all well and loving life. If not, then quit whatever you are doing and get over here. I need a touring partner. Big grin. Smooches.
Although, there is a gentleman sitting next to me in the internet cafe who is trying desperately to delete his own e-mail account. He says he cannot control himself to not check it, but no longer wants to read the e-mails that it contains...hmmm. I feel oddly contented by the fact that I do not currently view my web accounts in the same light. Though I can't confidently say that I have never nor will ever again empathize. Damn the world of open communication, right? Ha. No, not really.
I have a line up of people on this end that I keep wanting to thank. While I dog paddle through a sea of screwy logistics, I have been blessed a million times over by the people around me, preparing me for the real journey. From simple encouragement to traveling tips, giving, loaning or selling of equipment, and tangible heart-to-hearts over coffee, beer or curry. I feel rejuvinated by the connections I have made with fellow travelers and locals alike. While I cannot wait to get out of Bangkok, I cannot leave w/out saying thank you. And that's my moment of Zen. Now, where the hell is my taxi? Tee hee.
I'm going to end every paragraph I write from now on w/ a written laugh sound. Not really, but it amuses me to consider. I sooooo neeeeeeeed to get out of heeeeeeeeeere. Now there is a man yelling in Spanish in the phone booth. The guy next to me deleting e-mail accounts was Cambodian and dispelled this information in a whisper. According to him, Thais do not like Cambodians. Last I checked, a lot of the world doesn't like American's, but so far I have not felt inclined to whisper it. I think I walk around a lot, having no clue just how blessed my life is.
I am going to go break down my bike now and cram it into a box to cram into some form of public transportation to get myself out of here. I hope this finds you all well and loving life. If not, then quit whatever you are doing and get over here. I need a touring partner. Big grin. Smooches.
Monday, January 15, 2007
Wooooohooooooooo!
I did it! I did it! I bought the bike! I bought the gear! I bought the whole damned store worth of touring and cycling shite, half of which I already have, but it's in Olympia...Washington...USA.
Nevermind, not worth fussing over and didn't I absolutely, perfectly, not plan it this way? Um, ye-ah.
I just rode home in BKK rush hour traffic, racing motorcycles and tuk-tuk's all the way home. I feel like a little kid. And, for all I know, I may have just purchased the biggest hunk o' junk on the face of the planet, but I am in HEAVEN. However, did I mention that traffic runs on the opposite sides of the street here??? Yeah. It does. And anyone who's ever bought new SPD peddals might have a sense of how tight they are when you first put them on...not really smooth or fast to get out of. Yeah. They are. So, me and my cocky little kid at Christmas, nearly smeared myself into oncoming traffic (oops, wrong side), and came close to kissing the sidewalk, all w/in 30 seconds of leaving the shop...but I bought the bright yellow helmet, so they can at least find my head when I've lost it. That's really not even a funny joke, considering what I am about to do. Any spare good thoughts and prayers will be greatfully accepted.
Anyway, $620 later, I have a bike and full gettup for the road. Don't ANYBODY tell me anything bad about ANYTHING just yet. Let me fly high on this one for a while. I am sure I will have plenty to say about it all before it's all said and done. For now, I CAN NOT WAIT to hit the road and it's looking like Burma/ Myanmar, might be a bit more expensive and difficult than expected. Who know, I might be on the trail tomorrow! Eeeeeek!
Okay, two novels in one day. Hope you aren't actually reading all of this! Mmmmmchwa!
Nevermind, not worth fussing over and didn't I absolutely, perfectly, not plan it this way? Um, ye-ah.
I just rode home in BKK rush hour traffic, racing motorcycles and tuk-tuk's all the way home. I feel like a little kid. And, for all I know, I may have just purchased the biggest hunk o' junk on the face of the planet, but I am in HEAVEN. However, did I mention that traffic runs on the opposite sides of the street here??? Yeah. It does. And anyone who's ever bought new SPD peddals might have a sense of how tight they are when you first put them on...not really smooth or fast to get out of. Yeah. They are. So, me and my cocky little kid at Christmas, nearly smeared myself into oncoming traffic (oops, wrong side), and came close to kissing the sidewalk, all w/in 30 seconds of leaving the shop...but I bought the bright yellow helmet, so they can at least find my head when I've lost it. That's really not even a funny joke, considering what I am about to do. Any spare good thoughts and prayers will be greatfully accepted.
Anyway, $620 later, I have a bike and full gettup for the road. Don't ANYBODY tell me anything bad about ANYTHING just yet. Let me fly high on this one for a while. I am sure I will have plenty to say about it all before it's all said and done. For now, I CAN NOT WAIT to hit the road and it's looking like Burma/ Myanmar, might be a bit more expensive and difficult than expected. Who know, I might be on the trail tomorrow! Eeeeeek!
Okay, two novels in one day. Hope you aren't actually reading all of this! Mmmmmchwa!
Sunday, January 14, 2007
B.P.A.
This is ridiculous. I actually stress over what to write on this thing. I've concluded that I suffer from Bloggers Performance Anxiety (BPA). It's like strutting around naked on stage for a million faces I can't quite focus on. What if I sound like an idiot! Ha ha...and really, who the hell cares? Here, have another Chang.
Right, so there was an inquiry about the Guardian Angels and who they are. They are friends of friends, who just finished bike touring in Myanmar, and have spent a total of 5 or more years in the saddle touring the world. They sat w/ me for hrs, divulging information about the areas I am going, gear and equipment needed and routes to take. Alex (the girl half), then proceeded to weed through the chaos of bartering w/bike shops and street vendors to produce a collection of information and gear that has me thinking I could climb to the top of the world on sugar cane juice and duct tape alone if I felt so inclined. They pumped me full of "hell yes" and "get 'er done", then handed me what they were willing to part w/ from their travels and climbed on their bus back to Holland. Fucking brilliant. I could not have imagined a more inspirational or encouraging send off.
The night before, I had been talking to a guy in the dorm who has been traveling non-stop for the last 15 years. He just goes, and then finds work and connections to stay for a while. When he gets the feeling that he doesn't want to be there anymore, he looks at a map, picks the next place, and goes. Between talking to him and the crazy Rainbow hippies, I realized that I knew exactly what I wanted and exactly what I came here to do. I came here to bike. It's all I want to do. Once I got that straight, the rest of the fog cleared and w/ in a few hrs, I met the Holland couple, Alex and Tjies (Tice), who parted the seas and bid me follow. I cannot thank them enough.
I think the best parts are still to come when I hit the road and the world of hurt that awaits me. I haven't been on a bike in 3 mos, and I haven't been for a run in weeks. Bangkok air is so polluted I have let physical activity fall to the wayside and taken up a solid habit of fruit shakes, curry and Thai iced coffee. Whatever. I'm begging for adventure and can't wait to hit that first 50km wall. Honestly, I am just hoping the saddle I found still lets me walk after day 3. I am reading this great book, Catfish and Mandala, about a man who starts a tour up the West Coast of the US and then over to Japan and through Vietnam w/ a very similar approach. It's hilarious to read his very candid commentary on saddle sores, over packed bikes and brutal hill climbs, as I fully expect to be empathizing in the coming months. Yeah, that's right, I said MONTHS!!!
Anyway, for now, I am methodically packing as best I can for a million and one things I cannot forsee. I want to post photos to show you the incredible...insanity and chaos that this place has to offer on every corner. It's kind of like the Vegas strip...on crack...gone Asian. Replace every slot machine w/ a street vendor selling every fruit, vegitable, meat, pastery, knock-off shoes, jeans, purses, backpacks, nail clippers to knives, cd's, dvd's, jewelry...and really, that's just the beginning. It's dirty and smoggy and loud. The tuk-tuk's, pearlecent fucia cabs, motorcycles and traffic are a constant ocean of unruly racket and stank. People come here mostly to shop the streets and get shit-canned, and they do just that. It's nuts, and I kinda love it sometimes. I found the best latte for 20B ( the exchange rate is 35 Baht to the US dollar) accross the street from the hostel. They are doing my thoroughly neglected laundry for me too, while I dive into the a/c internet room for hrs on end. It's an easy way to spend the hot afternoons and recoup from the madness outside.
So, effortlessly, here is another novel for you to read. I generally hate reading blogs for this very reason. Who the hell cares what my days consist of? Well, that's for you to decide. Maybe one day I will torture my grandchildren by reading them exerpts from my travels, forever captured in the vaults of blogging history. Mwaaaahaha!
Okay, enough. Jack I love ya honey! Thanks for your response. I was feeling like a flake for not calling or e-mailing you before I left. I appreciate your thinking of me for the ski bit. Needless to say, I had a few other things brewing. Stay in touch. Mmmmmmchwa (that's a kiss). Cheers.
Right, so there was an inquiry about the Guardian Angels and who they are. They are friends of friends, who just finished bike touring in Myanmar, and have spent a total of 5 or more years in the saddle touring the world. They sat w/ me for hrs, divulging information about the areas I am going, gear and equipment needed and routes to take. Alex (the girl half), then proceeded to weed through the chaos of bartering w/bike shops and street vendors to produce a collection of information and gear that has me thinking I could climb to the top of the world on sugar cane juice and duct tape alone if I felt so inclined. They pumped me full of "hell yes" and "get 'er done", then handed me what they were willing to part w/ from their travels and climbed on their bus back to Holland. Fucking brilliant. I could not have imagined a more inspirational or encouraging send off.
The night before, I had been talking to a guy in the dorm who has been traveling non-stop for the last 15 years. He just goes, and then finds work and connections to stay for a while. When he gets the feeling that he doesn't want to be there anymore, he looks at a map, picks the next place, and goes. Between talking to him and the crazy Rainbow hippies, I realized that I knew exactly what I wanted and exactly what I came here to do. I came here to bike. It's all I want to do. Once I got that straight, the rest of the fog cleared and w/ in a few hrs, I met the Holland couple, Alex and Tjies (Tice), who parted the seas and bid me follow. I cannot thank them enough.
I think the best parts are still to come when I hit the road and the world of hurt that awaits me. I haven't been on a bike in 3 mos, and I haven't been for a run in weeks. Bangkok air is so polluted I have let physical activity fall to the wayside and taken up a solid habit of fruit shakes, curry and Thai iced coffee. Whatever. I'm begging for adventure and can't wait to hit that first 50km wall. Honestly, I am just hoping the saddle I found still lets me walk after day 3. I am reading this great book, Catfish and Mandala, about a man who starts a tour up the West Coast of the US and then over to Japan and through Vietnam w/ a very similar approach. It's hilarious to read his very candid commentary on saddle sores, over packed bikes and brutal hill climbs, as I fully expect to be empathizing in the coming months. Yeah, that's right, I said MONTHS!!!
Anyway, for now, I am methodically packing as best I can for a million and one things I cannot forsee. I want to post photos to show you the incredible...insanity and chaos that this place has to offer on every corner. It's kind of like the Vegas strip...on crack...gone Asian. Replace every slot machine w/ a street vendor selling every fruit, vegitable, meat, pastery, knock-off shoes, jeans, purses, backpacks, nail clippers to knives, cd's, dvd's, jewelry...and really, that's just the beginning. It's dirty and smoggy and loud. The tuk-tuk's, pearlecent fucia cabs, motorcycles and traffic are a constant ocean of unruly racket and stank. People come here mostly to shop the streets and get shit-canned, and they do just that. It's nuts, and I kinda love it sometimes. I found the best latte for 20B ( the exchange rate is 35 Baht to the US dollar) accross the street from the hostel. They are doing my thoroughly neglected laundry for me too, while I dive into the a/c internet room for hrs on end. It's an easy way to spend the hot afternoons and recoup from the madness outside.
So, effortlessly, here is another novel for you to read. I generally hate reading blogs for this very reason. Who the hell cares what my days consist of? Well, that's for you to decide. Maybe one day I will torture my grandchildren by reading them exerpts from my travels, forever captured in the vaults of blogging history. Mwaaaahaha!
Okay, enough. Jack I love ya honey! Thanks for your response. I was feeling like a flake for not calling or e-mailing you before I left. I appreciate your thinking of me for the ski bit. Needless to say, I had a few other things brewing. Stay in touch. Mmmmmmchwa (that's a kiss). Cheers.
back in black
Oh the inevitable distraction of life...and Bangkok. Here I am: BKK day 5 or 6 and for lack of a better description, back on track. I needed the curry to settle into my veins, have a couple conversations w/ Rainbow Gathering hippies ( to remind me what I did NOT come here to do) and a swift kick in the ass from my new Dutch Guardian Angels to gently remove head from ass...but really, what's another day in Bangkok?...Ha! How about: F-ing hot, F-ing insane and what the F just happened to the $200 I exchanged last night?! It's amazing how much money you can spend when it's all "So CHEAP!"
So, after much talk and deliberation, India has officially been cleared from the slate. I am reverting back to my original plan and cycling S.E. Asia.
The next couple of weeks I plan to fly into Chang Mai w/ friends and then to Mayanmar. We will travel for a week or so together before I return to BKK and begin my own adventures. I am so nervous and excited to start, it's torturous to put it all off for anything, but it's worth it to be with good friends and gives me a chance to consider my route and pull together last minute visas, toilet paper and antibiotics for any number of fabulous bacterial infections I could opt to experience along the way (Mom, don't freak out. I promise not to take them lightly or as candy...they aren't even rainbow colors or tasty like Advil).
For those of you that I didn't say goodbye to or inform of my plans...oops. Surprise! I'm in Asia for the next 3 and a half months! I keep meaning to get this blog thing up and running, give a little low down on the trip getting here. Mostly, to tell the tale of my train nailing a pedestrian, not 20 miles S. of Seattle. Perhaps not a good omen, but certainly a good story. Upon arrival, landed a great hostel, Shanti Lodge, thanks to Christian, flicked curry (chili oil) in my eye while attempting to consume a shrimp, sans flicking tail...f-ing oooooouch. Celebrated my birthday w/ new found and fabulous Canadian friend from the hostel, drinking Chang (gag), watching the Thai kids breakdance in the park (someday I will too), and then jamming out to Thai house music at a local dance club. All in all, fairly painless and void of hangover...fairly. Now my friends w/ child are in town, so I am on good behavior and assuming Antie status. Yesterday, sqared away the bike situation, still waiting to finalize a couple of things, and then I am off and running!
For any of you who might have been wondering, Bangkok is actually quite well equipped w/ bike shops and gear. Depending on what you are looking for, there are definitely better and worse places to go, but cycling is alive and well here. I would absolutely consider NOT bringing my own bike and doing exactly what I am doing, all over again. I might miss my bike shoes, peddals and saddle. Other than that, it's all here and it's affordable. Knowing what you want and getting it is the trick...thank God for Guardian Angels. Mind you, having the bike is one thing. Check in a month and let's see what I have to say about my trusty steed then.
For now, I hope you are all well and loving life. Feel free to e-mail me directly or respond to any blog at your own leisure. However, please keep in mind that we here at Even on A.M. like to maintain a family friendly atmosphere. Please refrain from drunk-blogging and any other inappropriate display of uncensored material. You will find only the purest of thoughts and intentions on this site. We ask that you share the same. I love the internet...and I love you. Yes, all of you. Holy shit, I just wrote a blog entry. Eeeeeeek!
So, after much talk and deliberation, India has officially been cleared from the slate. I am reverting back to my original plan and cycling S.E. Asia.
The next couple of weeks I plan to fly into Chang Mai w/ friends and then to Mayanmar. We will travel for a week or so together before I return to BKK and begin my own adventures. I am so nervous and excited to start, it's torturous to put it all off for anything, but it's worth it to be with good friends and gives me a chance to consider my route and pull together last minute visas, toilet paper and antibiotics for any number of fabulous bacterial infections I could opt to experience along the way (Mom, don't freak out. I promise not to take them lightly or as candy...they aren't even rainbow colors or tasty like Advil).
For those of you that I didn't say goodbye to or inform of my plans...oops. Surprise! I'm in Asia for the next 3 and a half months! I keep meaning to get this blog thing up and running, give a little low down on the trip getting here. Mostly, to tell the tale of my train nailing a pedestrian, not 20 miles S. of Seattle. Perhaps not a good omen, but certainly a good story. Upon arrival, landed a great hostel, Shanti Lodge, thanks to Christian, flicked curry (chili oil) in my eye while attempting to consume a shrimp, sans flicking tail...f-ing oooooouch. Celebrated my birthday w/ new found and fabulous Canadian friend from the hostel, drinking Chang (gag), watching the Thai kids breakdance in the park (someday I will too), and then jamming out to Thai house music at a local dance club. All in all, fairly painless and void of hangover...fairly. Now my friends w/ child are in town, so I am on good behavior and assuming Antie status. Yesterday, sqared away the bike situation, still waiting to finalize a couple of things, and then I am off and running!
For any of you who might have been wondering, Bangkok is actually quite well equipped w/ bike shops and gear. Depending on what you are looking for, there are definitely better and worse places to go, but cycling is alive and well here. I would absolutely consider NOT bringing my own bike and doing exactly what I am doing, all over again. I might miss my bike shoes, peddals and saddle. Other than that, it's all here and it's affordable. Knowing what you want and getting it is the trick...thank God for Guardian Angels. Mind you, having the bike is one thing. Check in a month and let's see what I have to say about my trusty steed then.
For now, I hope you are all well and loving life. Feel free to e-mail me directly or respond to any blog at your own leisure. However, please keep in mind that we here at Even on A.M. like to maintain a family friendly atmosphere. Please refrain from drunk-blogging and any other inappropriate display of uncensored material. You will find only the purest of thoughts and intentions on this site. We ask that you share the same. I love the internet...and I love you. Yes, all of you. Holy shit, I just wrote a blog entry. Eeeeeeek!
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